Walkers and holidaymakers are sitting at the outdoor picnic tables, and there is a buzz from the small bright room inside. A few plants, a vase of pretty flowers and cookbooks, including Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem and Nisha Katona’s Mowgli Street Food, add accents of colour to the white room; the back windows look out on to Cleggan pier.
The buffalo prawns are steaming hot inside a crunchy batter, glazed in a hot sauce that will have fans of Ireland’s most famous chicken wings licking their fingers. But it is home-fermented, not from a bottle of Frank’s, and a sprinkling of chopped coriander and scallion add to the flavour. Pickled onion aioli is delicious with the prawns and crispy hand-cut chips.